What to do in Genoa over the weekend: May 8-10, 2026 between the Alpini and the scent of the sea

An unforgettable May weekend

There is a precise moment in the year when Genoa shakes off the last winter lethargy and dresses itself in a new light, clear, almost dazzling. May is the month when the Superb City gives its best. The air smells of sea salt and freshly baked focaccia, the north wind gives way to a milder breeze, and the caruggi of the historic center seem to resonate with vibrant energy. If you have chosen this weekend, May 8-10, 2026, to visit our city, prepare yourself for an experience that will engage all your senses.

This is not an ordinary weekend. It is one of those rare moments when the city transforms into an open-air stage, hosting events of national significance and centuries-old traditions that renew themselves. From solemn parades crossing monumental squares to village festivals set in the fishing villages of the Riviera, you will be spoiled for choice. Our advice? Don’t try to do everything. Choose the pace that suits you best, deliberately lose yourself among the alleys, and let yourself be surprised by what Genoa has to offer you.

We at genovabb.it are here to guide you, as a Genoese friend who knows the secrets of his city would. Exploring Genoa on days like these means immersing yourself in a sea of contrasts: the solemnity of history and the vibrancy of street food, great classical music and secret concerts hidden in the oldest neighborhoods. Put on comfortable shoes, open your heart to wonder, and follow us on this itinerary tailor-made for you.

“I have never seen anything like Genoa! It is something indescribably beautiful and grand…”

— Richard Wagner, in a letter to his wife Minna, 1853

The Peaceful Invasion: Genoa Embraces the Alpine Troops

The pulsing heart of this weekend beats to the rhythm of fanfares. For the sixth time in its history, Genoa has the honor of hosting the 97th National Gathering of the Alpine Troops. From Friday May 8 to Sunday May 10, the historic center and the main arteries of the city will be crossed by a wave of green and tricolor. It is an event that literally transforms the city’s appearance: hundreds of thousands of Alpine soldiers will peacefully invade the squares, bringing with them an atmosphere of celebration, remembrance, and deep solidarity.

We recommend positioning yourselves near Palazzo Ducale or along Via XX Settembre to watch the flag parades. The contrast between the traditional Alpine uniforms and Genoa’s noble buildings, with their frescoed facades and bicolor marble, creates an extraordinary sight. Don’t miss the Holy Mass in the Cathedral, a moment of great contemplation beneath the majestic naves of San Lorenzo, and keep your eyes on the sky for the breathtaking parachute jump. The Gathering is not just a military parade, it is a popular celebration: stop to talk with the veterans, listen to improvised choirs at street corners, and let yourself be infected by their inexhaustible joy.

If you are traveling with young children and looking for an educational break away from the crowds, right at Palazzo Ducale on Saturday May 9, True or Likely? will be held, an interactive workshop designed for families. An excellent opportunity to rest your legs and stimulate children’s creativity, teaching them to distinguish reality from appearances through play, in the splendid setting of the city’s main cultural hub.

Sea Scent and Tradition: Camogli and its Giant Pan

If the city seems too crowded to you, or if simply the call of the sea is irresistible, Sunday offers an appointment that saying it is unmissable is an understatement. Head east, toward the Paradiso Gulf, to witness the legendary Fish Festival of Camogli, which this year reaches its 74th edition. Camogli, with its tall and very colorful houses that seem to spring directly from the water, is already in itself a jewel that deserves the trip. But on this May Sunday, the village surpasses itself.

The absolute star is the famous “padellone,” the world’s largest frying pan. Imagine a colossal stainless steel giant, weighing tons, positioned in Piazza Colombo, right next to the small harbor. From early morning onwards, volunteers fry tons of the freshest fish, distributing it free of charge in paper cones to visitors. The air fills with an intoxicating aroma mixed with sea salt. We suggest arriving early, perhaps by train (parking in Camogli these days is a titanic feat), to enjoy a walk along the waterfront before the line for fried fish becomes too long.

The Sagra del Pesce is deeply connected to the feast of San Fortunato, patron saint of fishermen, celebrated the evening before with spectacular bonfires on the beach and fireworks. If you have the chance to spend the entire weekend in the area, the nighttime atmosphere of Camogli illuminated by bonfires is a sight that will stay with you forever.

Between Parks and Street Food: The Awakening of Nervi

Staying on the eastern Riviera, but without leaving the municipality of Genoa, the neighborhood of Nervi offers a perfect alternative for those seeking a mix of nature, elegance and bold flavors. From Friday to Sunday, Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi transforms into the street food capital hosting FoodX. The best Italian and international food trucks will meet here, offering a culinary journey without borders: from Italian regional traditions, such as arrosticini and panelle, to the most sought-after ethnic specialties.

The perfect idea for your Saturday? Buy your favorite street food and move just a few steps to the Parks of Nervi. In May, the immense English-style lawn is an invitation to stretch out in the sun, while the famous Rose Garden is in full bloom, offering an extraordinary palette of colors and scents. After eating, treat yourself to a long walk along the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, the clifftop promenade overlooking the sea that offers breathtaking views all the way to the Portofino promontory.

And if you love popular atmospheres, on Sunday, May 10, Nervi also hosts the traditional May Fair. The streets of the seaside village will come alive with craft stalls, local products and various items. It’s the most authentic and commercial face of the neighborhood, an opportunity to mingle with residents and perhaps discover some small treasure to take home as a memory of your stay.

“You will see a royal city, nestled against an alpine hill, superb for its people and walls, whose very appearance marks it as the lady of the sea.”

— Francesco Petrarca, Itinerarium Syriacum, 1358

Hidden Melodies and Grand Returns in the Heart of the Superb

When evening falls, Genoa doesn’t go to sleep. Instead, its musical soul awakens, offering options for every taste. For those seeking the great emotion of theater, the Politeama Genovese offers two evenings of the highest caliber. On Friday, May 8, maestro Giovanni Allevi returns to enchant the audience with his piano, in a concert that promises to be a profound and touching inner journey. Saturday the 9th, instead, the inexhaustible energy of Massimo Ranieri will sweep the audience away with the show “All Dreams Still in Flight,” accompanied by a prestigious big band.

If you’re instead looking for more intimate or experimental sounds, the historic center hides real gems. Our most passionate recommendation goes to the Secret Concert of the Balena Festival 2026, scheduled for Sunday, May 10th in the maze of the Maddalena neighborhood. The format is fascinating: the artist and exact location remain a mystery until the last moment. The Maddalena, with its narrow caruggi, decadent noble palaces and historic shops, is the ideal stage for an event that makes discovery its strong point.

No less evocative is the appointment with Lumiero at Giardini Luzzati (Saturday, May 9th). The underground archaeological area, where the remains of Genoa’s ancient Roman amphitheater rest, will serve as a resonance chamber for this intimate live performance. Listening to live music surrounded by millennia-old stones, in the beating heart of Genoa’s nightlife, is an experience that masterfully unites past and present.

The Magic of the Big Screen on the Riviera

For lovers of cinema, the weekend offers a journey eastward that is absolutely worth the trip. Until Sunday, May 10th, Sestri Levante hosts the RIFF 2026: Riviera International Film Festival. This event has carved out a prestigious place in the international panorama, bringing Hollywood stars and great Italian directors (this year Matthew Modine, Silvio Soldini and Luca Argentero are expected) to one of Liguria’s most enchanting locations.

Sestri Levante, the “city of two seas,” will welcome you with the fairy-tale Baia del Silenzio and the spacious Baia delle Favole. Attending a screening or masterclass, then strolling on the sand at sunset with a glass of Vermentino in hand, represents the quintessence of Ligurian dolce vita. It’s an excellent excuse to get away from the hustle of the city and enjoy the Riviera at a slower, more reflective pace.

Our Insider Tip: An Escape from the Crowds

With the Alpini gathering in the city center and festivals along the Riviera, you might feel the need for a moment of pure peace. We Genoese know well where to take refuge when the city becomes too hectic. We suggest taking the historic Castelletto Levante elevator from Piazza Portello. In just a few seconds, you’ll be transported to Spianata Castelletto, Genoa’s “balcony.”

From up here, the noise of the parades will arrive muffled, like a distant echo. You can admire the slate rooftops, church bells, the old port and the Lanterna in complete tranquility. Buy an artisanal gelato or a granita, sit on one of the benches facing the sea and enjoy the spectacle of the sun setting behind the hills of the western side. It’s in these moments of suspension that you truly understand the rough and vertical beauty of this city.

Genoa Awaits You: Your Refuge in the Heart of the City

A weekend so rich in stimulation requires a welcoming place to return to and recharge your energy. Whether you want to be steps away from the fanfares of the Alpini or prefer a quiet corner near the sea, choosing the right accommodation makes all the difference. Discover our charming residences scattered throughout Genoa’s most beautiful neighborhoods: carefully appointed apartments, designed to make you feel at home from the first moment.

If Liguria is calling you and you want to experience this extraordinary May as true protagonists, we are ready to welcome you with the passion that characterizes us. You can book your stay directly on our portal, ensuring yourself the best starting point to explore the Superba. We’re waiting for you with open arms!