Trip to Ponente: Sanremo, Bordighera and winter at 15 degrees

The Call of the West: When Winter Dresses as Spring

There is a precise moment, on winter Sundays in Genoa, when the sky becomes a crystalline blue, swept clean by the tramontana wind, and the crisp air awakens an ancient desire: that of setting out on a journey. The Superba is a city that knows how to hold you in its warm alleyways and noble palaces, but those who inhabit it — or who choose it as a temporary refuge by staying in our residences — know full well that its position is an absolute geographical privilege. You need only look westward, where the sun sets, to answer a silent and luminous call.

The Riviera di Ponente, and in particular the far edge of the Riviera dei Fiori that extends to the French border, is not simply another stretch of coastline. It is a climatic anomaly, a meteorological miracle protected by the imposing shield of the Maritime Alps. While the rest of northern Italy is wrapped in heavy coats and scarves during winter, between Sanremo, Bordighera and Ventimiglia it is not uncommon for the thermometer to reach fifteen degrees on a February afternoon. The light here has a different quality, almost liquid, that expands spaces and brings out the colours of the lush vegetation.

Organizing a Sunday excursion to this pocket of land means embarking on a journey through time and space. It means leaving behind the austere verticality of Genoa to embrace more open horizons, vaguely retro atmospheres, and fragrances that blend salt air with jasmine and citrus. There is no need to wait for spring to enjoy these places: winter, stripped of the frenzy of beach tourism, is perhaps the most authentic season to discover Liguria’s Ponente coast in its most intimate and elegant essence.

Sanremo Beyond the Spotlight: Flowers, Sea and the Endless Cycle Path

Pronouncing the name Sanremo instantly evokes images of songs, flowers thrown from the stage and dazzling spotlights. But the real Sanremo, the one that lives three hundred and sixty-five days a year, is a profoundly different, layered and surprising city. Far from the hectic days of the Festival, the Capital of the Riviera dei Fiori reveals a dual soul: on one hand the Belle Époque elegance of its seafront promenade and the Municipal Casino, on the other the rough and winding charm of the Pigna, the medieval quarter that climbs the hillside, a labyrinth of caruggi, arches and silent little squares that bears a striking resemblance to Genoa’s own tangled streets.

The modern revolution of Sanremo, however, did not come through its theaters, but through its old railway line. Where trains once clattered just metres from the waves, the Pista Ciclabile del Ponente Ligure (Area 24) now runs. Twenty-four kilometres of smooth asphalt, reserved for bicycles and pedestrians, connecting Ospedaletti to San Lorenzo al Mare. Renting a bicycle on a clear winter Sunday and pedaling with the sound of the breaking waves in your ears, passing through old illuminated tunnels and gliding past sheer cliffs, is an experience that reconciles you with the world. The sea breeze is never too cold, and the sun warms your shoulders as you slip past deserted beaches and hidden coves.

You cannot leave Sanremo without exploring its Mercato Annonario, in Piazza Eroi Sanremesi. Here you understand the true meaning of the name “Riviera dei Fiori”. The stalls burst with the colors of local products, but it is the cut flowers, aromatic herbs, bunches of ranunculus and anemones that catch the eye. It is a lively, noisy, authentic market, where rhythms are dictated by the seasons and the generous land of the hinterland.

Bordighera and the Elegance of Palms

Continuing westward, about ten kilometres from Sanremo, you encounter Bordighera. If Sanremo is the city of spectacle, Bordighera is the refuge of aristocracy and art. In the nineteenth century, the English fell head over heels for this village, attracted by its exceptionally mild climate and the massive presence of palms, which grow here spontaneously and luxuriantly, giving rise to Europe’s most northerly palm grove.

The charm of Bordighera is subtle and demands a slow pace. The Argentina Seafront, named in honor of Evita Perón who inaugurated it, is an exceptionally long and immaculate pedestrian promenade, framed by towering palms and well-maintained gardens. From here, on windy days, your gaze sweeps freely across to the Côte d’Azur, and it’s not uncommon to clearly make out the skyline of the Principality of Monaco or the heights of the Esterel in France.

Monet arrived in Bordighera intending to stay a few weeks; he remained there for nearly three months, painting frenetically dozens of canvases, obsessed with the dazzling light and exotic vegetation that he couldn’t master with his Nordic colors. Today, walking along Via Romana, lined with nineteenth-century villas and secret gardens, or venturing into the Pallanca Exotic Garden — a spectacular vertical garden perched above the sea hosting thousands of succulent plant species — one can perfectly understand the impressionist painter’s obsession. Bordighera Alta, the historic nucleus enclosed by mighty walls, then offers intimate little squares where time seems to have stopped, perfect for a coffee in the sun sheltered from the wind.

Ventimiglia: the border gateway and the market ritual

The last stop before France is Ventimiglia, the border town. Often hastily considered merely a transit point, Ventimiglia possesses a raw and vital energy, profoundly different from its elegant neighbors. It is a city divided in two by the Roia River: on one side the modern, commercial, and pulsating city; on the other, perched on the hill opposite, Ventimiglia Alta, one of Liguria’s largest and best-preserved medieval historic centers, a maze of stone, Romanesque churches such as the Cathedral of the Assumption, and vertiginous views over the valley.

If your trip falls on a Friday, Ventimiglia offers the spectacle of its immense weekly market, which attracts thousands of visitors even from nearby France. But also on Sundays, the Covered Market is a crossroads of languages and flavors, where the Ligurian accent blends with French. Here the gastronomy changes imperceptibly: the Pissaladière with Nice inspiration appears, and Genoese focaccia gives way to Sardenaira (or Piscialandrea in Sanremo), a soft and thick focaccia topped with tomato, garlic in its skin, Taggiasca olives, capers and anchovies. A strong, decisive flavor that tastes of sea and harsh land.

How to get there and get around: the sunny route from Genoa

Reaching the far west coast from Genoa is a journey that forms an integral part of the experience. The most romantic and relaxing option, especially for a Sunday trip, is undoubtedly the train. From Genoa Brignole or Genoa Piazza Principe station, Intercity or Fast Regional trains take approximately two hours to reach Sanremo. The railway line, especially in the section between Savona and Imperia, often runs just meters from the sea, offering breathtaking views that those driving on the motorway cannot appreciate. Choosing the train means forgetting the parking problem, often critical in Ligurian villages, and enjoying the scenery from the window with a good book in hand.

For those preferring the independence of a car, the A10 Motorway (known as the Flowers Motorway) connects Genoa to the French border. The journey takes approximately one and a half to two hours, depending on traffic. It is a complex motorway, a continuous succession of viaducts suspended in the void and tunnels carved into the live rock, a masterpiece of engineering that cuts through the mountains at mid-slope. The advice for those traveling by car is to exit at the Sanremo or Bordighera toll booth and then move along the Via Aurelia to savor the slow rhythm of the coast.

A perfect itinerary for a day on the west coast

How to best organize these hours of daylight? Imagine departing from Genoa around 8:30 in the morning. Arriving in Bordighera around 10:30 allows you to enjoy the morning light on the Argentina Seafront, when the air is clearest. A walk to the small church of Sant’Ampelio, the southernmost point of Liguria, built on the rocks, is the best way to greet the sea.

For lunch, avoid overly touristy spots by the sea and look for a historic bakery in the caruggi of Bordighera Alta or Sanremo. Buy a steaming slice of Sardenaira, a piece of torta verde (the typical savory rice and vegetable pie of the western Riviera) and sit on a bench in the sun. It’s the Ligurian lunch par excellence: simple, flavorful, enjoyed in the open air.

Early afternoon is the ideal time to head to Sanremo. Rent a bicycle from one of the many kiosks along the old train station and take the bike path heading west towards Ospedaletti. An hour of easy pedaling, stopping for a coffee at bars housed in old railway buildings, will fill your lungs with sea air. Around 4:30 PM, after returning the bike, take a stroll along Via Matteotti, Sanremo’s shopping street, admiring the Art Nouveau facade of the Casino before the sun sets behind the French mountains.

The detail that makes the trip worthwhile: the golden light of Capo Sant’Ampelio

There is a detail in this corner of Liguria that escapes traditional tourist guides but remains imprinted in the memory of those who know where to look for it. It’s not a monument, nor a typical dish. It’s an optical phenomenon. In Bordighera, near the little church of Sant’Ampelio, in the late winter afternoon, the sun doesn’t set behind the mountains like elsewhere in the region, but seems to gently dip into the sea towards France. This particular angle creates a grazing light, golden and very warm, that sets the palm leaves ablaze and transforms the stone of the cliffs into molten metal. It’s the same light that enchanted Claude Monet. Stopping here in silence, listening to the dull sound of waves against the rocks while the sky turns violet and orange, is worth the trip from Genoa all by itself.

The journey home to the Superb City

When shadows grow long and the evening air begins to bite, it’s time to head home. The train or car will take you back east, retracing the coast. It’s at this moment, as the landscape scrolls by dark beyond the window, that you appreciate the value of having a solid and welcoming base waiting for you.

Seeing the illuminated profile of the Lanterna appear in the distance means you’re back. Returning to Genoa, opening the door to one of our homes scattered among the caruggi of the Old Town, Porto Antico or the heights of Castelletto, is not like returning to a cold hotel room. It’s like coming home, tired but happy, with your eyes full of the light of the western Riviera and the smell of sea salt still on your clothes. If Liguria is calling you and you want to experience exploring it at your own pace, we’re here, ready to welcome you. You can book your stay and, if you own an apartment in the city and want to be part of our family, discover how to maximize your property with our passionate management.