The Call of the Hinterland: From the Sea to the Hills of Monferrato
There comes a moment during a stay in Genoa when the desire to explore pushes beyond the line of the marine horizon. It’s the classic feeling of a Sunday morning, when Liguria’s clear sky invites you to set off on a journey. You’ve already admired the historic palaces, lost yourself in the caruggi and breathed in the sea salt while strolling through the seaside villages. Now, imagine turning your back to the sea for a moment and looking towards the mountains. The Apennines, which embrace and protect the city, are not an impassable wall, but a natural bridge to completely different landscapes.
In fact, it takes little more than an hour’s journey from our accommodations in the heart of Genoa to witness a surprising geographical metamorphosis. The steep Ligurian rock gives way to the gentle, orderly hills of Lower Piedmont. The salty air is replaced by the earthy scents of forests, grape must and vineyards. You’ve entered Monferrato, and your destination is one of the most singular pearls of this territory: Acqui Terme.
This elegant Piedmontese town represents the perfect day trip for those who wish to combine wellness, archaeological discoveries and excellent food and wine offerings. Acqui Terme is not simply a holiday destination, but a city that lives in symbiosis with its primary element: thermal water. A water that has shaped its urban planning, its economy and its identity since the days when Roman legions marched through these lands.
La Bollente: The Pulsing and Steaming Heart of the City
Your first encounter with the soul of Acqui Terme will inevitably take place in its open-air drawing room: Piazza della Bollente. As you approach walking along Corso Italia, the city’s main shopping street full of cafés and boutiques, you’ll notice something unusual. Even in the height of summer, but especially on crisp autumn or winter mornings, you’ll see a column of white steam rising from the center of the square. It’s a continuous, warm breath that carries with it a distinctive and subtle sulphurous scent.
At the center of the square stands an elegant octagonal marble kiosk, designed in 1879 by architect Giovanni Ceruti. Beneath this neoclassical structure flows, uninterruptedly, the thermal spring that gives the square its name. The water of La Bollente emerges from the depths of the earth at an impressive temperature of 74.5 degrees Celsius. It’s a mesmerizing natural phenomenon. Approach with caution: the ritual involves touching the water or taking a small sip from the side taps, but be careful, because the name doesn’t lie—the water is truly scalding hot.
The square is not merely a tourist attraction, but the true gathering place of Acqui’s residents. This is where people meet, where children play trying to catch clouds of steam, and where you can feel the slow, relaxed rhythm of a city accustomed to being lulled by the warmth of the earth. Sit at one of the cafés overlooking the square, order an espresso and enjoy the spectacle of this urban theater where nature is the absolute protagonist.
Following the Empire’s Footsteps: Ancient Aquae Statiellae
The geothermal wealth of this territory could hardly have gone unnoticed by the ancient Romans, great admirers of thermal practices. In the 2nd century B.C., they founded the city of Aquae Statiellae here, rapidly transforming it into one of the Empire’s most renowned health and leisure resorts, mentioned even by historians of the era for the extraordinary quality of its springs.
“Sunt et in Statiellorum finibus aquae calidae…” (There are also in the territory of the Statielli hot waters…)
— Pliny the Elder, Naturalis Historia, Book XXXI
The traces of this glorious past are still visible today and perfectly integrated into the city’s fabric. To understand its grandeur, we suggest visiting the Castello dei Paleologi, an imposing medieval fortress surrounded by a lush park, which today houses the Civic Archaeological Museum. Inside you can admire extraordinary finds, intricate mosaics and everyday objects that will allow you to reconstruct life in the ancient thermal resort.
But the true masterpiece of Roman engineering awaits you just outside the historic center. With a brief and pleasant walk, you reach the banks of the Bormida river. Here, majestic and silent, stand the remains of the Roman Aqueduct. Fifteen imposing brick pillars, connected by soaring arches, stand out against the sky and surrounding greenery, testifying to the construction mastery of two thousand years ago. Walking along the riverbank at sunset, with golden light illuminating the red of Roman bricks, is a visual experience that alone is worth the trip from Genoa.
Thermal wellness: from tradition to modern spas
If history has fascinated you, it’s time to move from theory to practice. Acqui Terme boasts a centuries-old healing tradition, based not only on its sulfurous-saline-bromine-iodine waters, but also on natural muds, considered among the best in Europe. The city is ideally divided into two thermal poles: the historic center, with the historic Nuove Terme establishment, and the Bagni area, located beyond the Bormida river.
The Bagni area, accessible by crossing the bridge over the river, is a green and tranquil space where you can breathe the atmosphere of the Belle Époque. Although some of the historic Grand Hotels await revival, the charm of the tree-lined avenue and well-maintained gardens remains intact. Here you’ll also find the Lago delle Sorgenti, a modern holistic wellness center where you can immerse yourself in warm thermal pools, experience Kneipp treatments, and let water massage you in a totally relaxing environment. If you wish to include a pause of pure wellness in your outing, we recommend booking your entrance in advance.
Even without fully immersing yourself, the thermal atmosphere pervades every corner. The clean air, the unhurried pace, and the care of public green spaces make Acqui Terme a place where city stress simply seems to evaporate, just like the water from its main spring.
The flavors of Monferrato: Brachetto, amaretti and rural traditions
A trip to Piedmont cannot be considered complete without a thorough exploration of its food and wine heritage, and Acqui Terme, located at the crossroads between the Langhe, the Monferrato and the Ligurian Apennines, offers a first-class culinary heritage. The proximity to Liguria is felt: don’t be surprised to find excellent farinata cooked in wood ovens or focaccia in the bakeries of the center, testament to the continuous commercial exchanges that occurred over the centuries through the Apennines.
However, as you sit in one of the welcoming trattorias in the historic center, you will be immersed in the strong and reassuring flavors of Piedmont tradition. Start with a classic vitello tonnato or a beef tartare sliced by knife. Continue with a plate of agnolotti al plin, strictly served in a napkin or bathed in roasting sauce. In colder seasons, the aromas of white truffle or the intense flavors of mixed fried Piedmont-style and bagna cauda will dominate the tables.
But Acqui Terme is, first and foremost, a land of great wines. The undisputed king of these hills is Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG. Forget full-bodied and tannic red wines: Brachetto is a sweet red wine, slightly sparkling, characterized by an intoxicating aroma of rose and wild strawberry. It is the wine of celebration, of joy, perfect for accompanying desserts. Alongside Brachetto, you’ll find excellent productions of Moscato d’Asti, Dolcetto and Barbera del Monferrato. For a guided tasting, we suggest stopping at the Regional Wine Library located in the splendid cellars of Palazzo Robellini.
Before you leave, there’s a mandatory purchase to extend the sweetness of your outing: Amaretti di Acqui. Unlike classic dry amaretti, those from Acqui are soft, prepared with sweet and bitter almonds, sugar and egg white. Every bakery in the center jealously guards its own recipe; try them paired with a glass of Brachetto, a combination that enhances both products.
How to get from Genoa and practical tips
Reaching Acqui Terme from our Genoa facilities is simple and offers several options, allowing you to choose between the convenience of a car and the charm of slow travel by train.
By car: The quickest and most direct route uses the A26 motorway (Genova-Gravellona Toce). Take the motorway at the Genova Est, Ovest or Aeroporto tollgate (depending on your location) and continue northbound, passing the Passo del Turchino. Exit at the Ovada tollgate and from there follow the signs for Acqui Terme along the picturesque Strada Provinciale 456 del Turchino. The journey takes approximately one hour and a quarter. Once in Acqui, you’ll find ample free or paid parking in the immediate vicinity of the historic center, such as the former Caserma Battisti or Piazza Facelli.
By train: If you prefer to travel carefree and enjoy the landscape, the train is a fascinating option. The historic railway line Genova-Ovada-Acqui Terme winds through the Apennines crossing viaducts and wooded valleys. Regional trains depart regularly from Genova Brignole station or Genova Piazza Principe. The journey takes an average of an hour and a half, but will leave you just steps away from the pedestrian center of Acqui Terme, making a car entirely unnecessary for your day of exploration.
A practical tip: if you love markets, schedule your outing for Tuesday or Friday morning. The squares of the center fill with colorful stalls where you can buy local agricultural products, Monferrato cheeses and local specialties directly from producers.
An ideal itinerary for your day
To help you get the most out of your outing, here’s a flexible itinerary proposal, designed for those seeking the right balance between culture, gastronomy and relaxation.
Arrive in Acqui Terme around 10:00 in the morning. Start with breakfast in one of the historic cafés on Corso Italia, enjoying a cappuccino accompanied by a soft local amaretto. From there, stroll towards Piazza della Bollente to admire the thermal vapors in the crisp morning air. Take a few photos and continue your walk climbing towards the Castello dei Paleologi. Spend an hour visiting the Archaeological Museum and enjoying the panoramic view over the rooftops of the city and surrounding hills.
For lunch, head back down into the maze of alleyways in the historic center. Choose a typical Piedmontese osteria and treat yourself to a slow, flavorful meal: a mixed platter of local cured meats, a beautiful plate of agnolotti, and a glass of Barbera will restore your peace of mind.
In the afternoon, walk off lunch with a refreshing stroll. Cross the Bormida River to explore the Bagni area, admiring the late 19th-century architecture. Then, follow the riverbank along the Passeggiata Fonte dell’Acqua Marcia until you reach the majestic remains of the Roman Aqueduct. It’s the perfect time to take photographs, when the sun begins to set and the light becomes warmer.
End your day by returning to the center for an aperitivo at a wine bar: a glass of Brachetto d’Acqui or Alta Langa DOCG will be the perfect toast before you head back towards the sea.
The detail that makes the trip worthwhile
There’s a small secret in Acqui Terme that often escapes hurried visitors. While everyone focuses on the piping hot water of the Bollente, few know that nature here plays on contrasts. Walking beyond the Bormida River, near the Roman Aqueduct, you’ll find a small stone fountain half-hidden in the greenery. It’s the so-called “Acqua Marcia”. Unlike its famous sister spring in the city center, this thermal source flows cold, at around 19 degrees, and is characterized by a much more intense and penetrating sulfurous smell (hence its rather unflattering name). Tasting it or simply smelling it will help you fully understand the geological complexity of this incredible territory, offering you a raw and authentic sensory experience, far from the polished marble of the center.
The return to the Superba
When the sun sets behind the hills of Monferrato, it’s time to make your way back to the sea. The journey home is always a moment of pleasant reflections, with the trunk perhaps enriched by a few bottles of wine and a box of amaretti. Descending from the Apennines and seeing the lights of Genoa reflected once again in the dark waters of the port is an emotion that never gets old. It’s the beauty of exploring from a perfect base. Returning to our residences doesn’t mean going back to a cold hotel room, but rediscovering the warmth of a true Genoese home, where you can rest and dream of your next adventure. If Liguria and its magnificent surroundings are calling to you, we’re here to welcome you: you can book now your stay and start planning unforgettable itineraries by reading our Genoa guide and the tips from La Superba.
