The Monferrato: UNESCO hills, castles and great wines a stone’s throw from Genoa

The Call of the Hills Beyond the Apennines

There is a precise moment, usually Sunday morning, when Genoa wakes up with a different light. The sea sparkles, certainly, but the gaze of Genoese people, and of those who have learned to experience the city as they do, sometimes seeks a different horizon. It is the call of the inland areas, of that ancient green world that hides just beyond the barrier of the Ligurian Apennines. Those staying in our residences know well that La Superba is not just a destination, but the perfect base for exploring one of Europe’s most fascinating geographical crossroads.

You just need to take the A26 motorway, the famous “Tunnel Highway,” leave behind the salty smell of Voltri and venture into the mountains. In a little over an hour of driving, the Ligurian landscape, harsh and vertical, suddenly becomes gentler. The rocks give way to a sea of earth: waves of hills combed by rows of vines, patches of coppice woods, brick bell towers that emerge like lighthouses in the morning mist. You have arrived in Monferrato.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014, together with the nearby Langhe and Roero, Monferrato is a land that speaks softly. While the Langhe have become an international showcase, manicured and at times crowded, Monferrato preserves a wild, aristocratic and rural soul at the same time. It is a perfect destination for a day trip from Genoa, especially in autumn, when the air smells of grape must and truffles, or in spring, when the hills burst with an almost blinding green.

Monferrato or Langhe? A Praise for Authenticity

The comparison is inevitable for anyone who ventures into Lower Piedmont. The Langhe, with Barolo and Barbaresco, have conquered the world. But Monferrato offers something that has become a rare luxury today: space, silence, the privilege of discovery. Here you will not find tour buses waiting in line for a tasting, but winemakers with earth-stained hands ready to open their home cellars to you as if you were old friends.

Monferrato is dotted with medieval manors, defensive fortresses and Savoyard residences that tell centuries of battles between the local Marquisate, the Savoys and the Spanish. The villages, built in red bricks or sandstone, cling to ridges. Driving here means getting voluntarily lost, following the profile of a hill, stopping by the roadside to photograph a vineyard that changes color under the sunset light.

The absence of mass tourism has preserved the authentic soul of the piole, the typical Piedmontese taverns. In Monferrato, vitello tonnato, agnolotti del plin seasoned with roast sauce and Piedmontese fried mixed meats are not tourist attractions, but the sacred ritual of Sunday family gatherings.

Casale Monferrato: The Capital of the Paleologi (and the Krumiri)

Every exploration of the territory should start from or pass through Casale Monferrato, the historic capital. Nestled on the right bank of the Po, Casale is an elegant city where Baroque palaces alternate with austere arcades and airy squares. The military heart of the city is the imposing Castello dei Paleologi, a formidable fortress that recalls the strategic importance of this outpost during the Renaissance.

But Casale hides two treasures that alone are worth the trip from Genoa. The first is of a spiritual and artistic nature: the Synagogue of Casale Monferrato. Hidden behind an anonymous façade, typical of Jewish places of worship in the pre-emancipation period, the interior explodes in a riot of gilded stucco, inscriptions and wooden furnishings from the Baroque era. It is considered one of the most beautiful synagogues in Europe and houses a Museum of Jewish Art and History of inestimable value, testimony to a flourishing community integrated into the city’s fabric.

The second treasure is decidedly more secular, but equally sacred for those with a sweet tooth: Krumiri. Born in 1878, these dry shortbread biscuits made of flour, butter, eggs and vanilla are folded into a dumbbell shape. The legend, never denied and much beloved, tells that the shape is a tribute to the famous mustache of the King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel II, who died in that very year. Buying them at the historic Portinaro shop, wrapped in their iconic red tin box, is an indispensable ritual. They are the perfect souvenir to bring back to your kitchen in Genoa, ideal for dunking in tea or, as locals do, in a glass of sweet wine or liqueur.

Acqui Terme: hot water and Roman charm

If Casale dominates the north of Monferrato, Acqui Terme is its southern capital, nestled in the Alto Monferrato, near the Ligurian Apennines. Acqui is a city of water and ancient history. The Romans, great enthusiasts of thermal baths, called it Aquae Statiellae and made it a vital center, of which the imposing arches of the aqueduct that crosses the Bormida river remain visible today along the promenade.

But the beating heart, literally, of Acqui Terme is Piazza della Bollente. In the center of this square surrounded by elegant buildings, stands an octagonal marble shrine designed in the nineteenth century. From here flows, uninterruptedly, a sulphurous thermal water at the natural temperature of 74.5°C. On crisp autumn mornings, when the air is bracing, steam rises from the fountain enveloping the square in a cinematic and surreal mist.

Stop here for an aperitif. Acqui Terme is the homeland of Brachetto, a sparkling red wine, sweet and aromatic, that smells of roses and wild strawberries. Sipping a glass of Brachetto d’Acqui, accompanied by local cheeses or a taste of amaretti, with a view of the steaming fountain, perfectly sums up the concept of Piedmontese savoir vivre.

In the bowels of the earth: the Infernots and rebellious wines

The detail that makes Monferrato unique in the world, and which earned it UNESCO recognition, is not found in the sunlight, but underground. We are talking about Infernots. These are small underground chambers, hand-carved in “Pietra da Cantoni”, a particular sandstone of marine origin present only in this area of Lower Monferrato (the area of Rosignano Monferrato, Cella Monte and surroundings).

These secular crypts, devoid of light and direct ventilation, maintain constant temperature and humidity throughout the year. Nineteenth-century farmers carved them with pickaxes and patience to store their finest bottles, those for special occasions. Descending into an Infernot is a mystical experience: the walls of pale rock, often shaped with niches and rudimentary sculptures, tell the story of the toil and dedication of generations of winemakers.

And speaking of wine, Monferrato is the cradle of proud and characterful grape varieties. Here Barbera reaches its maximum expression, especially in the Barbera d’Asti or Monferrato variety, offering wines of great structure, vibrant acidity and marasca cherry aromas. But the true symbol of the territory is Grignolino.

Ruby red and transparent, Grignolino deceives the eye: it looks like a light rosé, but on the palate it explodes with dry tannins, notes of white pepper, geranium and spices. It is the ideal companion for Piedmont cured meats, such as Monferrato cooked salami or muletta. Don’t forget to also taste Dolcetto or the rare Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato, a wine with such intense floral aromas that it seems like an Oriental perfume.

How to organize your day from Genoa

The best way to explore Monferrato is undoubtedly by car. From Genoa, take the A26 motorway at Voltri towards Gravellona Toce. For Alto Monferrato (Acqui Terme, Ovada), the recommended exit is Ovada, just 45-50 minutes from Genoa. For Basso Monferrato (Casale Monferrato, Cella Monte), continue on the A26 until the Casale Monferrato Sud exit (approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes).

If you travel by train, the Genoa-Acqui Terme line is picturesque and convenient (approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes of travel), perfect for a trip focused exclusively on the thermal city and its immediate surroundings. However, without a car, exploring the hillside villages and the Infernot becomes complicated, as local bus connections are sparse on weekends.

A perfect itinerary? Leave Genoa around 9:00 AM. Arrive at Cella Monte, one of the “Most Beautiful Villages in Italy”, to visit the Stone Ecomuseum from Cantoni quarries and descend into a real Infernot. Around 12:30 PM, move to a trattoria among the vineyards for lunch based on agnolotti and Barbera. In the afternoon, drive to Casale Monferrato for a stroll through the historic center, visit the Synagogue and buy Krumiri. If you prefer thermal spa atmospheres, reverse the route: morning in Acqui Terme, lunch with views of the hills and afternoon in Ovada before returning home.

The journey home, between sea and alleyways

The magic of day trips lies entirely in the moment of return. When the sun begins to set, the car takes the mountain road again, threading through the Apennine tunnels. And then, suddenly, after the last curve above Voltri, there it is again: the Ligurian Sea, dark blue and immense, framed by the lights of the coast turning on.

Leaving behind the red bricks and mists of Monferrato to find again the slate, the aroma of focaccia and the narrow alleys of Genoa is a contrast that fills the heart. Returning to Genoa does not mean closing yourself in just any hotel room. It means coming home to a living place, in the heart of the historic center or just a stone’s throw from the sea.

If the call of the sea, combined with the charm of the Piedmont hills, is tempting you, we are here waiting for you. Book your stay with us: pack your bags for the Superba, and leave a little space in your luggage for a case of Barbera and a box of Krumiri.