The Call of the Hills Beyond the Apennines
There is a precise moment during your days in Genoa when your gaze detaches from the azure horizon of the Ligurian Sea and turns toward the mountains that encircle the city at its back. It is the call of the hinterland, that middle ground where the salty air gives way to the scent of forest, damp earth, and, moving northward, of grape must and burnt wood. The beauty of staying in our residences lies also in this: Genoa is not only an extraordinary destination, but the perfect starting point for exploring some of Italy’s most fascinating territories.
Today we take you on an excursion to Lower Piedmont, just over an hour’s drive from the center of Genoa. Leaving the port behind and taking the A26 motorway, you only need to cross the Apennine pass at Turchino to witness a transformation of the landscape. Liguria’s stark, vertical rock suddenly softens, transforming into a green sea of gentle hills, combed by rows of grapevines that follow the curves of the terrain. You have arrived in the Alessandrian Alto Monferrato, a borderland where the accent begins to change, yet the soul still maintains a deep historical and cultural bond with the Superb city.
This is a journey of slow rhythms, of glasses raised in ancient cellars, of castles soaring over ridges, and of trattorias where time seems to have stood still. A Sunday outing that will allow you to discover a different face of the Northwest, and then return in the evening to the comfort of your Genoese apartment, enriched by new flavors and unforgettable views.
Ovada: the Ligurian Gateway to Monferrato
Our itinerary begins in Ovada, the main center of this portion of territory. Situated at the confluence of the Stura and Orba streams, Ovada is the perfect embodiment of a border town. Strolling through its historic center, you will immediately notice a fascinating detail: the architecture still speaks Genoese. The historic buildings overlooking Piazza Assunta and along the caruggi of the center feature typical facades painted in trompe-l’œil, with false shutters, false stuccowork, and pastel colors that immediately evoke the alleyways of the Ligurian coast.
And yet, the air you breathe is already profoundly Piedmontese. In the morning, the market animates the streets with the aromas of farm cheeses, local cured meats, and, in autumn, the precious white truffle. We suggest beginning your exploration right here, getting lost among the streets of the center, admiring the majestic Parochial Church of Nostra Signora Assunta, with its twin bell towers that dominate the town, and stopping at one of the historic pastry shops to taste local hazelnut biscuits made with gentile round hazelnuts.
Ovada is a lively, authentic town that does not live solely on tourism but on a solid and proud agricultural economy. It is the ideal place for a relaxing stroll before venturing into the surrounding hills, perhaps stopping at the Regional Wine Cellar to get advice on the best local labels to take home as a souvenir of your outing.
The Red King: Dolcetto di Ovada DOCG and Its Cellars
One cannot speak of this slice of Monferrato without celebrating its undisputed sovereign: Dolcetto di Ovada. Beware of being misled by the name, which probably derives from the sweetness of the ripe grapes in the vineyard or the softness of the hills (the “dossetti”). The wine that results in the glass is quite the opposite of sweet: it is a dry red, austere, with an intense ruby color with violet reflections, characterized by a pleasant and typical almond aftertaste.
Since 2008, the Superior version of this wine has earned the DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin), testament to a quality that has established itself in the national wine landscape. The true magic, however, does not lie solely in tasting it, but in experiencing local cellars. The Ovada Monferrato region is dotted with small and medium-sized agricultural enterprises, often family-run, where hospitality is warm and sincere. Entering these cellars means listening to the stories of generations of winemakers, walking among oak barrels where the wine rests, and understanding the effort and passion hidden behind every bottle.
Many cellars offer guided tastings, often accompanied by platters of local cured meats and cheeses. We recommend booking your visit in advance. You will discover an unpretentious wine, perfect for accompanying robust traditional dishes, a wine that seeks no compromises but knows how to win you over from the first sip for its profound authenticity.
Castles Among the Vineyards: Tagliolo, Lerma, and Morsasco
If wine is the blood of this land, castles are its skeleton. Alto Monferrato is one of the areas in Europe with the highest density of medieval manor houses, ancient defensive bastions transformed over centuries into noble residences and, today, often closely tied to wine production.
“…exultant with castles and vineyards / soil of Aleramo…”
— Giosuè Carducci, Piemonte (1890)
The Undiminished Charm of Castello di Tagliolo
Just a few kilometers from Ovada, the village of Tagliolo Monferrato rises, dominated by its imposing castle. Owned by the Pinelli Gentile family for over five centuries, this manor is an extraordinary example of historical preservation and productive vitality. The castle is not just a monument to admire from a distance: its ancient medieval cellars still house the barrels where the estate’s wine matures. Strolling through the fortified village surrounding the walls, with its stone houses and silent alleyways, will transport you back in time, into a suspended and evocative atmosphere.
Lerma and Its Suspended Village
Continuing your itinerary, we invite you to discover Lerma. Its historic center, known as the “Ricetto,” is a maze of narrow streets that tighten around Castello Spinola. The true peculiarity of Lerma is its position: the village is built on a rocky spur that plunges vertically over the Piota stream. The view from the viewpoint offers a dizzying vista over the clear waters of the stream, where in summer swimmers seek relief and where, once upon a time, gold seekers would sift the sands searching for precious flakes. It is a corner of absolute quiet, perfect for taking unforgettable photographs.
Morsasco, Between Towers and Panoramas
Moving slightly further north, you will encounter Morsasco, another jewel set among the vineyards. Its castle, with its massive watchtower, dominates the valley below, offering a 360-degree panorama that, on the clearest days, stretches all the way to the Alpine arc and Monte Rosa. Here too, the village gathers protectively around the stately residence, offering picturesque views and a silence broken only by the wind caressing the vine leaves.
At Table in Monferrato: Ravioli, Cured Meats and Truffles
A trip to Piedmont cannot be considered complete without a proper exploration of its gastronomy. If in Genoa you have learned to love pesto, focaccia and the freshest fish, here you must prepare your palate for flavors of the earth, intense and structured. The trattorias and osterie of the Ovada area are temples of traditional cuisine, places where recipes are handed down from mother to daughter without yielding to contemporary trends.
The principal dish you absolutely must order is ravioli. Forget the lean versions: here ravioli are strictly filled with meat and are served in two traditional ways: dressed with the rich “sugo d’arrosto” (the meat cooking base, concentrated and very flavorful) or “a culo nudo,” that is, plain, or dunked in a bowl of red wine, as the old peasant custom dictated. A rustic experience but incredibly delicious.
Accompanying the first courses you will find platters of exceptional cured meats, among which the cooked salami stands out, soft and fragrant, perfect with a slice of rustic bread. If you organize your trip in autumn, prepare yourself to be intoxicated by the scent of white truffle, which here finds one of its preferred habitats, generously grated over tajarin (the typical Piedmontese egg tagliatelle) or over eggs fried in a pan.
How to Organize Your Trip from Genoa
Reaching the Ovada area from Genoa is extremely simple, which makes this destination ideal for a day excursion without the stress of long journeys. If you travel by car, you simply need to take the A26 motorway (Genoa Voltri – Gravellona Toce) heading north. The journey from the Genoa West exit to the Ovada exit takes about 45-50 minutes, traffic permitting. Once you exit, the hills and villages are all reachable with short journeys of 10-15 minutes along panoramic and well-maintained provincial roads.
But there is a fascinating alternative, especially if you want to enjoy wine tastings without the worry of having to drive back: the train. The historic Genoa-Acqui Terme railway line crosses the Apennines, climbing through the Stura valley and piercing the mountain with the Turchino tunnel. It is a slow journey, panoramic, almost romantic. In about an hour of travel departing from Genoa Brignole station or Genoa Principe station, you will find yourself directly at Ovada station, just steps from the historic center.
The Perfect Itinerary for a Sunday
To make the most of your day, we suggest departing from Genoa around 9:30 in the morning. Arriving in Ovada around 10:30 will allow you to have a leisurely breakfast in Piazza Assunta and to explore the market and caruggi of the center. Around 11:30, head toward the hills: it is the ideal time to visit a winery, take a walk among the vineyards and enjoy a first wine tasting guided by the producer.
At one o’clock, sit down at a table in one of the many osterie between Tagliolo, Lerma or Cremolino. Take your time: the Sunday lunch in Piedmont is a ritual not to be rushed. After savoring the ravioli and braised meat, dedicate the afternoon to digestion by strolling through the villages. Climb to the viewpoint of Lerma or admire the walls of Castello di Tagliolo while the sun begins to set, coloring the vineyards with golden hues.
The invisible but fundamental detail that unites these lands is the wind. Winemakers call it the “Marin”: it is the warm breeze that rises from the Ligurian Sea, crosses the Apennines and descends onto the Monferrato hills, drying the bunches and contributing decisively to grape maturation. As you sip your wine, remember that inside that glass there is also a breath of the sea you left behind in the morning.
Around 5:30 PM, when the air becomes fresher, it’s time to set off again heading south. Taking the highway or train, you’ll watch the Apennines pass by in reverse, until, after crossing the pass, the intense blue of the Mediterranean will fill your eyes once more. Returning to Genoa, opening the door of one of our homes and relaxing after such a day filled with beauty is the best way to end your weekend. If the desire to explore calls to you, we are here to welcome you: you can book now your stay and start dreaming about your next discovery.
