At dawn, when the mist rises from the Gulf of Tigullio and the first boats glide silently toward the open sea, the coastal path that connects Nervi to Camogli awakens with the scent of sea salt mixed with broom. It is not the postcard-perfect sea of tourist brochures: it is the living sea of Liguria, the one that has shaped the character of generations of fishermen and sailors, the one that still whispers ancient stories among the limestone rocks and maritime pines.
This twenty-kilometer route is not just a walk: it is a journey through time and space, an intimate dialogue with what the Genoese simply call “a mâ” — the sea. Here, where the mountain drops directly into the blue, every step reveals a fragment of that authentic Liguria that resists time, made of mule tracks, votive chapels and breathtaking panoramas.
The scent changes with the seasons: wild rosemary in spring, ripe myrtle in summer, the sharp saltiness of autumn when storms reshape the cliffs. But the magic remains constant, that of walking suspended between sky and sea, accompanied by the eternal sound of waves crashing against the rocks.
The route: from Nervi to the heart of Tigullio
The path begins from Genova Nervi railway station, in the neighborhood that Genoese people consider their seaside living room. Here, where the Anita Garibaldi promenade already offers a taste of the blue that will accompany us throughout the day, you take the red and white waymarked trail of the Sentiero Liguria, an ancient salt route that connected fishing villages to the inland valleys.
The first kilometers are a sweet prelude: the path winds between Art Nouveau villas overlooking the sea and historic parks where palm trees coexist with stone pines. The elevation gain is still gentle, just 200 meters of climbing spread over two kilometers, while your eyes adjust to that particular quality of Ligurian light that makes the water sparkle like precious metal.
“O mâ o l’è come a vîta: bello e cativo, dôçe e salòu, ma sempre o ne ciamma”
— Genoese proverb: “The sea is like life: beautiful and harsh, sweet and salty, but it always calls us”
Beyond Nervi, the character of the route changes. The path becomes wilder, more authentic. Here the real trekking begins: 18 kilometers of ups and downs between sea level and the 300-meter ridges, with an overall elevation gain of about 1200 meters up and the same down. The difficulty is medium, accessible to those with minimum fitness and a strong passion for breathtaking views.
The route follows the ancient mule track that connected fishing villages, touching small hidden coves and promontories from which you can embrace the entire Gulf of Tigullio with your gaze. The walking hours slip away accompanied by the intense scent of Mediterranean scrubland: broom, rock rose, wild rosemary and, in the more sheltered areas, the sweet fragrance of prickly pears that grow wild among the rocks.
Punta Chiappa: the balcony overlooking Tigullio
The first obligatory stop is Punta Chiappa, a small fishing village clinging to the cliff like a nautical nativity scene. Here, about 8 kilometers from the start, the path offers one of its most intense emotions: the view suddenly opens onto the entire Gulf of Tigullio, from Portofino to the Cinque Terre, in a panorama that embraces kilometers of Ligurian coast.
The name “Chiappa” comes from the Ligurian dialect and means “flat rock,” referring to the characteristic limestone rocks that form small natural terraces by the sea. A few families of fishermen still live here, casting their nets every morning in the crystal-clear waters, following traditions passed down from father to son. The boats are pulled ashore on the small pebble beach, protected from the mistral wind by cliffs that rise like natural bastions.
It’s the perfect moment for a pause: sitting on the dry stone walls that border the terraced vegetable gardens, you can observe the patient work of those who have adapted their lives to the rhythm of the sea. The houses, painted in traditional Ligurian colors—ochre, dusty rose, sage green—are reflected in the calm waters of the small bay, creating an atmosphere suspended in time.
San Rocco di Camogli: between the sacred and the profane
Continuing along the path, after another 6 kilometers of walking through holm oak forests and ever-changing panoramas, you reach San Rocco di Camogli. This small sanctuary, built in the 17th century by fishermen as an ex voto to give thanks for surviving a storm, is much more than a simple chapel: it is the spiritual heart of the relationship between Camogli’s people and the sea.
The church, white and simple like a fisherman’s house, rises on a promontory that overlooks Camogli from above. From here, the panorama embraces the entire maritime village: the colorful houses mirrored in the small harbor, the pebbly beach where fishermen still repair their nets today, the tonnara that testifies to a thousand-year-old fishing tradition.
Inside the sanctuary, the maritime ex votos tell stories of storms faced and dangers overcome. Small boat models, naïve paintings depicting escaped shipwrecks, yellowed photographs of fishermen who never returned: each object is a fragment of the collective memory of those who have made the sea their life.
San Rocco is also the junction point of the trail: from here you can choose to continue directly toward Camogli through a steep 2-kilometer descent, or extend the route toward Monte di Portofino, adding another 4 kilometers of scenic walking before descending to the village.
Arrival in Camogli: where the sea meets tradition
The final kilometers toward Camogli are perhaps the most moving of the entire route. The path descends gently through terraced olive groves and maritime pine forests, while the village gradually reveals itself in all its beauty. The colorful houses—not a tourist gimmick, but an ancient maritime tradition for recognizing one’s home from the sea—are reflected in the waters of the small gulf like in a great natural mirror.
Golden, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Camogli is not just a destination: it is an experience. Here time seems to have stopped at the golden age of Ligurian seafaring, when Camogli’s boats sailed all the world’s seas. The village preserves intact its soul as a fishermen’s village, with the harbor coming alive every morning with the voices of fishermen selling fish directly from their boats.
“Camogli, where houses are reflected in the sea like women combing their hair before a silver mirror”
— Guy de Maupassant, French writer, during his journey to Liguria in 1881
The descent toward the village is a succession of photographic scenes: first the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta emerging among the rooftops, then the Dragonara castle protecting the small harbor, finally the colorful boats pulled ashore on the pebbly beach. It’s the perfect reward for six hours of challenging but unforgettable walking.
The Genoese sea: between tradition and modernity
For Genoese people, this trail is not just a trekking route: it is a pilgrimage to the roots of their maritime identity. Many walk it regularly, in every season, to keep alive that ancestral bond with the sea that has forged the city’s character. Some set out at dawn to enjoy breakfast in Camogli watching the sun rise from the sea, others tackle it in the afternoon to arrive at sunset, some walk it even in winter when the sea becomes wilder and the colors more intense.
In recent years, the trail has also become a symbol of sustainability: more and more Genoese choose to reach Camogli on foot instead of by car, combining their love of nature with the need to preserve these extraordinary places. It is slow tourism, conscious tourism, that respects the rhythms of nature and local traditions.
The Ligurian sea that can be admired from this trail is not just scenery: it is an ecosystem, a resource, a memory. On days of strong northeasterly wind, when the air is crystal clear, you can spot dolphins following schools of anchovies. In spring, the cliffs are populated by yellow-legged gulls that nest in the crevices of the rock. In summer, the waters fill with posidonia, the seagrass that oxygenates the sea and testifies to its good health.
Practical Information for Coastal Trekking
The trail from Nervi to Camogli requires adequate preparation and the right equipment. Trekking shoes are essential: the terrain is often rocky and uneven, with exposed stretches where foot safety is fundamental. A trekking pole can be useful on the steeper sections, especially when descending.
Clothing should be layered: the sea breeze can be cool even in summer, while in the central hours the sun can be intense. A hat and sunglasses are essential, as is good sunscreen: the reflection off the sea amplifies the action of UV rays. Don’t forget at least two liters of water per person and some energy snacks: along the route there are very few opportunities to resupply.
The best periods to tackle the trek are spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October), when temperatures are mild and the light is more beautiful. Summer can be challenging due to heat, while winter requires greater attention to weather conditions: the trail can become slippery after rain.
For the return, the most convenient solution is the train: from Camogli station, regional trains depart that in 45 minutes return to Genoa Brignole, from where it is easy to reach Nervi. Alternatively, line 82 buses connect Camogli to central Genoa with departures every hour.
The cost of the train ticket is about 4 euros, while parking in Nervi (if you arrive by car) costs about 1 euro per hour in the blue zones. Many prefer to reach Nervi directly by train from Genoa: the station is right at the beginning of the trail and you avoid parking problems.
If Genoa is calling you with its most authentic sea, the one that smells of salt and ancient stories, our properties await you to discover the city from its beating heart. Here, where every dawn brings with it the scent of adventure and every sunset tells a different story, you can experience Genoa as Genoese people do: with the sea always in your heart and in your eyes.
