There is a precise moment, usually Sunday morning, when the city, however magnificent, makes you crave different horizons. You wake up in one of our residences in the heart of Genoa, open the windows and the crisp air suggests that it’s the ideal day for an outing. The sea is there, just a few steps away, but sometimes the Ligurian soul calls inward, toward silent valleys, chestnut forests and freshwater rivers. It is in these moments that we suggest you point your navigator toward the northeast, climbing the Apennines, to discover one of the most fascinating and historically rich villages in Northern Italy: Bobbio.
Located in the magnificent Val Trebbia, Bobbio is a borderland. Geographically and administratively it is found in Emilia-Romagna, in the province of Piacenza, but its soul, its history and the ancient salt routes bind it inextricably to Liguria and Genoa. For centuries, merchants, monks and muleteers traveled these valleys, exchanging the oil and salt of the coast for the cereals and meats of the hinterland. Today, in little more than an hour and a half of travel, you can retrace those ancient routes and find yourself catapulted into a Middle Ages of stone, spirituality and legends.
Our Sunday column in our magazine is born precisely for this reason: to remind you that staying in Genoa means having the keys to a vast territory, capable of changing landscape within a few kilometers. Leave behind the scent of sea salt for a day and prepare yourself to breathe the pure air of the Apennines.
The Apennines you didn’t expect: the journey along Val Trebbia
The journey to reach Bobbio is, in itself, an experience worthy of your attention. Forget the straight and fast highways; here you travel along State Road 45, a legendary strip of asphalt that winds faithfully following the course of the Trebbia river. Starting from Genoa, you will climb up the Val Bisagno, cross the Scoffera pass and venture into a landscape that becomes wilder and more majestic with every kilometer.
The steep slopes covered with Mediterranean scrub gradually give way to dense broadleaf forests. The road curves, climbs, descends and offers you sudden glimpses of deep gorges where the river flows peacefully. It is a journey that requires calm, perfect for those who love to drive unhurried, rolling down the windows to let in the scent of resin and damp earth. When finally the valley widens and you glimpse in the distance the terracotta roofs and stone bell towers, you will understand that you have arrived in a place where time seems to have slowed its pace.
Bobbio welcomes you with its unmistakable physiognomy, nestled at the foot of Monte Penice. The architecture marks the cultural transition: the painted facades and slate roofs typical of Liguria give way to solid exposed stone and the red barrel tiles of Emilia, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere that will make you feel immediately at home.
Abbey of San Colombano: the beating heart of monastic Europe
Bobbio cannot be understood without starting from its founding core: the Abbey of San Colombano. As you walk through the streets of the historic center, you will realize that every street, every plaza, seems to converge toward this imposing monastic complex. Its history begins in a remote era, in 614 A.D., when the Irish monk Colombano, after pilgriming across half of Europe founding monasteries, arrived in this isolated valley.
“Agilulfo, king of the Lombards, granted to Colombano a desolate place in the Apennines, called Bobbio, where there was a ruined church once dedicated to Saint Peter. There the man of God built a monastery of which he was abbot until the end of his life.”
— Jonah of Bobbio, Vita Columbani (7th century)
When entering the Basilica, we suggest taking your time. The current building, with its Renaissance forms, houses treasures far more ancient. Descend into the crypt: here, in an atmosphere of deep reverence, rest the remains of the Saint, surrounded by a magnificent wrought iron gate. But the true hidden gem lies beneath your feet. Admire the magnificent 12th-century floor mosaic, which depicts the months of the year, zodiac signs, and scenes of daily and agricultural life. It is a stone book that tells the story of the medieval conception of time and labor.
Don’t forget that, during the dark ages, the Bobbio monastery hosted one of Europe’s most important scriptoriums. The monk scribes of this abbey recopied and saved from oblivion countless texts of Latin and Greek antiquity. Walking through the silent cloisters, you can almost imagine the rustle of parchment and the scent of ink that once filled these spaces.
The Ponte Vecchio: a pact with the Devil on the emerald river
If the Abbey is the spiritual heart of Bobbio, the Ponte Vecchio is undoubtedly its most powerful and fascinating visual symbol. Known to all as the “Ponte Gobbo” or “Ponte del Diavolo,” it is a structure that defies the laws of symmetry and architectural logic. Nearly three hundred meters long, it crosses the Trebbia River with eleven irregular arches, all of different heights and widths, creating an undulating and bizarre profile that has no equal in Italy.
We invite you to walk across it on foot, preferably in the early morning hours or toward sunset. The irregular paving of river pebbles will force you to watch your steps, but when you raise your gaze, the view over the valley and the village will take your breath away. The bridge’s peculiar shape has generated countless legends over the centuries. The most famous tells that it was the Devil himself who built it in a single night, following a pact with Saint Colombanus. The demon demanded in exchange the soul of the first living being to cross it; the Saint, clever as he was, made a dog pass over it (or, according to other versions, a bear), thus deceiving the evil one.
The historical and engineering reality is equally fascinating: the irregular structure is not a mistake, but a brilliant adaptation to the sudden and violent floods of the Trebbia River. The different arches follow the configuration of the river bed and the underlying rocks, allowing the bridge to resist the fury of the waters for almost a thousand years.
Diving into the Trebbia: the refreshing summer of Genoese people
If you decide to organize your trip during the summer months, you will discover a side of Bobbio that Genoese people have known and loved for generations. When the heat on the Ligurian coast becomes intense, the Trebbia Valley offers a cool and rejuvenating refuge. The Trebbia River, in this stretch, is famous for the extraordinary clarity of its waters, which take on shades ranging from emerald green to intense turquoise.
Along the river banks, near the Ponte Gobbo or heading toward more hidden coves like the beach of San Salvatore or the area of Berlazzano, you will find small pebble beaches where you can spread your towel. The river water is cool, invigorating, perfect for a refreshing swim. It is a bathing experience completely different from the sea: there is no salt on your skin, only the freshness of fresh water and the relaxing sound of the current flowing between the rocks.
We recommend bringing water shoes with you, as the riverbed stones can be slippery, and always pay attention to the currents, which in some places can be quite strong. Spending a summer afternoon on the banks of the Trebbia, with a view of the Ponte Gobbo in the background, is a simple and absolute pleasure that will enrich your vacation.
Maccheroni with the needle and snails: the flavors of a border land
A Sunday outing cannot be considered complete without having explored the local cuisine. In Bobbio, the table perfectly reflects the border nature of this land. Leave behind pesto and Ligurian focaccia for a day to immerse yourself in the robust flavors of the Piacenza Apennines. The trattorias in the historic center, often hidden in narrow stone alleys or overlooking small courtyards, will welcome you with the aroma of aged cured meats and long-simmered sauces.
The signature dish you absolutely must taste is maccheroni alla bobbiese. Don’t be fooled by the name: it is a very particular fresh pasta, prepared by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle (the needle, precisely). They are traditionally dressed with a rich beef stracotto, whose dense and flavorful sauce clings perfectly to the roughness of the pasta. It is a dish that tastes of family Sundays and traditions passed down from mother to daughter.
If you love bold flavors, don’t miss the stewed snails, prepared according to ancient local recipes, or the brachettone, a cured meat to be cooked typical of Bobbio, often served with polenta. And to finish on a sweet note, look for almond brittle, a simple but delicious sweet, perfect for munching on as you resume your walk. Portions are generous, hospitality is genuine and sincere: leaving the table unsatisfied is practically impossible.
How to reach Bobbio from Genoa
To reach Bobbio, the automobile is by far the most practical and recommended means of transport. From your Genoese base, you need to take State Road 45 (SS45) toward Piacenza. The journey is about 90 kilometers, but allow at least one hour and forty-five minutes of travel, as the road is full of curves and passes through numerous small populated centers. It is a scenic route that is an integral part of the experience.
If you prefer to avoid winding mountain roads, there is a longer but smoother alternative: you can take the A7 motorway to Tortona, merge onto the A21 towards Piacenza, exit at Piacenza West, and from there head up the Val Trebbia along the flatter and wider section of the SS45. Travel times are similar, but driving is less demanding.
Once you arrive in Bobbio, we suggest leaving your car in the parking areas just outside the historic center (such as the one in Piazza San Francesco or near the river) and moving around exclusively on foot. The village is compact and walking through its alleyways is the best way to savor its atmosphere. Unfortunately, since there is no train station in Bobbio, the train option would require arriving in Piacenza and then taking a regional bus service, a lengthy and impractical option for a day trip.
The perfect itinerary for a Sunday in Bobbio
To help you make the most of your day, we have planned an ideal itinerary that is relaxing yet complete. Arrive in Bobbio around 10:00 in the morning. Start with a good coffee in Piazza Duomo, admiring the facade of the Concattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. Immediately after, dedicate your morning to spirituality and history by visiting the Abbazia di San Colombano, the crypt with its mosaics, and if time permits, the interesting Abbey Museum.
Around 13:00, treat yourself to lunch at one of the trattorias in the center. Look for an intimate spot, perhaps with wooden tables and checkered tablecloths, and order a nice plate of maccheroni alla bobbiese accompanied by a glass of Gutturnio, the sparkling red wine typical of the Piacenza hills.
In the afternoon, as the sun begins to set, head towards the river. It is the perfect time to walk across the Ponte Gobbo. If it is summer, go down to the riverbed to wet your feet or take a refreshing dip. If instead you are there in autumn, climb towards the Castello Malaspina-Dal Verme, which overlooks the village from above, to enjoy a spectacular panoramic view over the valley colored with the warm tones of fall foliage.
The detail that makes the trip worthwhile
Every place has a secret, a moment of grace that reveals itself only to those who know how to wait. In Bobbio, this moment arrives at dusk, looking at the village from the opposite bank of the Trebbia river, beyond the Ponte Gobbo. When the sun sets behind the Apennine mountains, the slanting light strikes the stone of the bridge and the houses of the village, lighting them up with an intense golden color. The river waters reflect the eleven irregular arches, creating a perfect mirror image. In that moment, in the silence broken only by the flowing water, Bobbio will appear to you exactly as it must have appeared to pilgrims a thousand years ago: a miracle of stone and faith set in wild nature.
The return home, to your Genoese residence
When shadows lengthen, it is time to set off again towards the south, retracing the SS45 state road. You will take with you the memory of an intact Middle Ages, the taste of hand-made pasta and the freshness of river water. But the beauty of these trips also lies in the return. Returning to Genoa, seeing the lights of the city reflected in the harbor, and opening the door to your apartment is not like returning to a cold hotel room.
It is a true homecoming. Our homes are designed to welcome you, to offer you an intimate space to rest, browse through photos from the day just spent, and perhaps plan the next day’s trip. To continue reading our advice and to discover Genoa and its wonderful surroundings, we invite you to explore our website. If Liguria is calling you, we are here: we are waiting to welcome you with passion. You can book now your next stay and start dreaming about your trip.
